Appliance Repair Questions, Answered by Local Engineers

Appliance Repairman Ltd repairs electric ovens, cookers, hobs, washing machines, dishwashers, tumble dryers, microwaves and selected domestic coffee machines within approximately 25 miles of Colchester. Call 01206 432 436 or book online.

Same-day and next-day appointments are available where possible. Same-day spaces are limited, so calling earlier in the day gives you the best chance of securing one.

We normally work within approximately 25 miles of Colchester, covering surrounding parts of North Essex and Suffolk. This includes areas such as Colchester, Sudbury, Braintree, Witham, Clacton-on-Sea, Ipswich and parts of Chelmsford. Call with your postcode if you are near the edge of the area.

We repair electric ovens, electric cookers, range cookers, electric and induction hobs, washing machines, dishwashers, tumble dryers, microwaves and selected domestic coffee machines. We do not repair refrigeration or gas appliances.

No. We repair electric cooking appliances but do not undertake gas work. A Gas Safe registered engineer should inspect any suspected gas fault.

No. Appliance Repairman does not currently undertake refrigerator or freezer repairs. Our service concentrates on cooking, laundry, dishwashing, microwave and selected coffee appliances.

Standard repairs are generally £79 plus parts for electric ovens, hobs, washing machines and tumble dryers. Range cooker and dishwasher repairs are generally £99 plus parts. The price will be confirmed before work begins, particularly for unusual models or faults.

There is no separate call-out charge added on top of the agreed repair price. The published repair price includes the home visit, diagnosis and labour. If an appliance cannot be repaired economically, any diagnostic charge will be explained before booking.

Parts are additional unless specifically stated otherwise. The engineer will diagnose the fault, explain which part is required and obtain your agreement before proceeding with additional costs.

The repair price includes the diagnosis, labour and necessary return visits for the agreed repair. Parts remain additional unless your written quotation says otherwise.

Completed repairs include a six-month guarantee. The guarantee applies to the repair undertaken and the relevant replacement parts, subject to the written repair terms.

Many common faults can be completed during the first visit, but this cannot be guaranteed. It depends on the appliance, diagnosis and whether the correct replacement part is available. Providing the model number and fault details before the appointment can help.

Please provide the appliance type, brand, model number if available, displayed error code, a description of the fault, your postcode and your telephone number. Tell us immediately about burning smells, leaks or electrical tripping. A photograph of the rating plate or error display can also help.

Repair is normally worth considering when the appliance is otherwise in good condition, the required part is available and the total cost is comfortably below replacement. Replacement may be more sensible when the cabinet, drum, tub or electronics have extensive damage or the appliance has suffered several recent failures.

Possibly. Age alone does not decide it. A pump, door lock, belt, heater or valve fault may still be economical. Major bearing, drum or control-board work on a low-cost machine may not be. The brand, condition, fault and price of an equivalent replacement should all be considered.

It depends on the fault. A blockage, pump, heater or door component may justify repair, particularly if the dishwasher is integrated and replacement involves installation costs. Extensive water damage, a damaged cabinet or several major faults may make replacement better value.

There is no reliable universal percentage rule. Compare the complete repair cost with the purchase and installation cost of a genuinely equivalent replacement, not simply the cheapest new appliance available.

Ask whether the quoted price includes the visit, diagnosis, labour, VAT and necessary return visits. Confirm whether parts are additional and whether the repair is guaranteed. Avoid agreeing to open-ended hourly work without understanding the likely total.

Common causes include a blocked filter, trapped object, kinked drain hose or failed drain pump. Switch the machine off before checking an accessible user-cleanable filter. If it still contains water, repeatedly hums or displays a drain error, arrange a diagnosis.

It may be caused by an unbalanced load, undrained water, a worn belt, motor fault, door-lock problem or control fault. Try redistributing the load and running a drain-and-spin cycle. If the water remains or the drum will not turn, stop using it and book a repair.

The door normally remains locked while water is inside or immediately after a cycle. Try a drain programme and allow several minutes for the lock to release. Do not force the door because a failed drain pump or door interlock may require replacement.

First check that the load is balanced and the machine is level. Persistent heavy banging can indicate worn suspension, loose counterweights or bearing problems. Stop using the machine if the drum appears loose or strikes the cabinet.

Possible causes include a loose hose, blocked dispenser, damaged door seal, pump leak or internal hose failure. Turn off the water and electricity if the leak is significant. Do not continue using it until the source has been identified.

This is typically the heating element.

This could be the thermostat.

This could be the motor or Heating element.

This could be the Door Interlock.

The filter, drain hose, waste connection or pump may be blocked. Clean only the filters and accessible areas described in the manufacturer's instructions. If the pump hums without draining or the fault returns, the dishwasher needs further diagnosis.

Check the filter, spray-arm holes, detergent and loading first. If the water remains cold, tablets do not dissolve or dishes stay greasy, the heater, circulation pump, thermostat or associated controls may have failed.

Continuous draining often means water has entered the safety base and activated the anti-flood system. Switching it off may stop the noise, but the underlying leak must still be found before the dishwasher is used again.

A damaged seal is possible, but excessive foam, incorrect loading, blocked spray arms or a machine sitting out of level can also force water towards the door. Stop the cycle and investigate before water damages the floor or surrounding units.

Check the selected programme, rinse aid and loading first. If the dishwasher remains cold throughout the cycle, it may have a heater, thermostat, sensor or control fault.

Answer… This is typically the heating element.

Answer… This could be the thermostat.

Answer… This could be the door mechanism. Tip… Try putting the tablet into the cutlery basket, the tablet won’t dissolve until water heats!

On a fan oven, this commonly indicates a failed heating element. Other possibilities include the selector switch, thermostat, wiring or control system. An engineer can test the components and identify the actual failure before replacing parts.

A heating element breaking down to earth is a common cause, but damaged wiring, a terminal block or another electrical component could also be responsible. Do not repeatedly reset the circuit and continue cooking. Leave the oven switched off until it has been inspected.

Check the consumer unit and whether the oven clock is flashing. Some ovens will not heat until the clock has been reset after a power interruption. If there is no display or the circuit trips again, arrange an electrical diagnosis.

Possible causes include an inaccurate thermostat, temperature sensor, selector switch or control-board fault. Stop using the oven if it becomes dangerously hot, fails to regulate or continues heating when the controls should be off.

A failed element can leave the oven running on reduced heat, while a slow or seized fan can prevent proper circulation. Thermostat inaccuracies and damaged door seals can also contribute. Proper temperature testing can distinguish between them.

The grill and oven normally use separate heating elements and electrical circuits. If the grill works normally but the oven does not heat, the oven element or its control circuit is a likely cause.

Many electric ovens will not heat while the clock is flashing or set to automatic mode. Try resetting the clock using the manufacturer's instructions. If the display cannot be reset or the oven remains dead, it may require repair.

This could be the sealant holding the glass in.

Answer 1… If Conventional Oven, it could be an element has failed! Answer 2… If Fan Oven, the fan is weak or has failed! Tip… If the fan is not turning try flicking with a knife, it may be a temp fix!

Possible causes include a failed heater, thermostat, thermal cut-out or airflow problem. Clean the user-accessible filters and condenser first. If there is still no heat, the components need testing rather than guessing.

Switch it off immediately and unplug it if safe. Lint buildup, a slipping belt, an overheating motor or a damaged electrical component could be responsible. Do not continue using a dryer that produces smoke, burning smells or excessive heat.

Answer 1… This is typically the heater element But it could be a thermal overload Cut-Out (TOC)! Tip… on some dryers, they have a reset on the back of the appliance. Answer 2… It could also be that the water reservoir is full or blocked.

Answer… This could be the motor or the heater element!.

Answer… This Could be the belt, motor or motor starters.

Answer… This is probably the door micro switch aka interlock!.

A failed heating element, regulator, induction module, sensor or wiring connection could affect one cooking zone while the others continue working. The correct diagnosis depends on whether the hob is solid plate, ceramic or induction.

Check that the pan is induction-compatible, centred correctly and large enough for the selected zone. If suitable pans work on other zones but not one particular zone, the hob may have a sensor, coil or electronic module fault.

The fault may involve the magnetron or high-voltage circuit. Microwave ovens can retain a dangerous electrical charge even after being unplugged, so the casing should not be removed by an untrained person. Arrange professional testing or consider replacement depending on the appliance's model and age.

Customers can safely perform basic checks described in the manufacturer's instructions, such as cleaning accessible filters, checking hoses or resetting an oven clock. Do not dismantle an appliance, work on live wiring, open a microwave or repeatedly reset a tripping circuit unless you are properly trained.